Tales from Siam by Germaine Krull and Dorothea Melchers (Robert Hale, London, out of print) ~Janet Brown
When Germaine Krull invites two friends to go with her to her house on a Chiang Mai mountain, they probably feel they were on a great adventure. The 500-mile trip from Bangkok takes a full day and frequently involves guiding Germaine's Mercedes Benz over two logs set at parallel distances that served as bridges along the way. The journey is "sticky and not too pleasant," although the perils are faced by a driver, and a cook has come along to provide meals during this weekend interlude.
After the first night, a monsoon storm settles in, bringing with it "a drifting white vapour" that is all that could be seen when the ladies look out the windows. The torrent of rain has washed out the mountainside road, leaving Germaine's driver, who had gone to Chiang Mai for a few supplies the day before, unable to return. A bulldozer arrives to rebuild the road but for now the house party is marooned.
Since Germaine has a well-stocked pantry of canned food, a garden provides fresh vegetables, and they have enough cigarettes, whiskey, and gin, there's no reason to panic. Her only neighbors are members of a hill tribe who recently made their living by growing opium and still do at times despite the laws against that, and monks at the area's most revered temple which is a strenuous climb away. Isolation and boredom are the only perils facing the visitors but luckily Germaine has stories that fill the long, dark evenings.
In Bangkok, Germaine is the proprietor of the Oriental Hotel, a place that suffered from Japanese occupation during World War Two but one that she's brought back into luxury. It's a hub for travelers and expatriates, all who come with colorful histories, and Germaine knows them all.
Over the next ten days, she entertains her guests with tales of tropical indiscretions. There's the stolid French businessman who falls under the spell of black magic, losing his fortune, his family, and eventually his memory. There's the man of undistinguished looks but with a "scintillating mind and encyclopedic knowledge" who manages to be friends with both Ho Chi Minh and Emperor Bao Dai, making him a valuable architect of Indo-Chinese diplomacy and eventually the husband of a Burmese princess. She has stories of unscrupulous monks and a near-tragedy involving a naive British aristocrat who took on the vows of a Buddhist nun.
But this book is no mere rehashing of The Canterbury Tales, set in Thailand. Germaine is an historian who has read contemporary histories of Siam written by French Jesuits in the days when Ayutthaya was a capitol of incredible wealth and sophistication, with forty different international settlements within its borders. She is friends with one of the last Chiang Mai princesses who grew up in the palace of a queen of Thailand. She has studied the ill-fated history of Phaulkon, the Greek adventurer who became a confidential advisor to King Narai and was murdered by a group of jealous noblemen.
Even more fascinating is Germaine's own story. Born in Germany, she took up photography and Communism with equal enthusiasm. Communism landed her in a Russian prison for being "anti-Bolshevik" and photography took her to Paris, where she became friends with Jean Cocteau, Colette, Andre Kertesz, and Man Ray. Although she became known for her portraits and fashion photography, she made her name with a portfolio of 64 black-and-white industrial photographs, Métal.
Turning to photo-journalism, she spent much of World War II in Africa, then went to Southeast Asia as a war correspondent. She lived in Thailand for twenty years, then went on to India where she converted to Tibetan Buddhism and published Tibetans in India in 1968.
She died in 1985 in a German nursing home, taking 88 years of stories with her.